A small hamlet of San Giovanni d’Asso is
located 19 miles southeast of Siena, in the area known as
the Clay Hills.
Its rich history can be traced back to the dawn of
Christianity when an ancient local Longobard church, San Pietro a
Pava, became an important religious center. The hamlet shaped up in the Middle
Age when a castle was built here. Over the course of centuries, the hamlet
passed from one noble Siennese family to another. Due to its non-strategic
position, away from the main commercial routes, San Giovanni d'Asso has never
been in the center of any historic events and has remained a sleepy charming
village. Just like in the old days locals grow grains, olives and make wine,
although, nowadays it is better known for excellent white truffles.
Crete Senesi |
Every year in November the hamlet
celebrates a two-week Festival of the white truffle (Sagra del tartufo bianco).
The streets fill up with stands selling the precious tuber and traditional foods
and restaurants serve various dishes made with it. There is also a museum dedicated to tartufo
bianco, the first one in Italy, housed in the beautiful 13th century
castle overlooking the hamlet that tells about every aspect of the fragrant
tuber and takes visitors on a sensorial journey into its fascinating world.
The hamlet’s main 14th century church
of San Giovanni Battista has no opulent décor but close to the heart of
many Christians as it guards a number of religious relics of Saint Peter, Saint
John and Saint Catherine of Siena. Another lovely church that is worth a visit is
San Pietro in Villore. First mentioned in documents dating back to the 8th
century , it has an atmospheric dimly lit crypt and a an elegant bell gable.
Castello - San Giovanni d'Asso |
Despite its minuscule size, the hamlet has
a few excellent restaurants where you can indulge in seriously good local food.
La Locanda del Castello
serves delicious pasta with a white truffle sauce and local Sienese porc chops
rolled in almonds. In Osteria delle
Crete you can taste mouth-watering salami and cheeses with truffles.
Photos via Flickr by: Carlo Tardani, Antonio
Cinotti.
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